The plight of Uganda’s textile and fashion industry

Uganda, like many African countries, has been facing challenges in reviving its local textile and fashion industry due to the influx of second-hand clothes imports, which amount to about 145 million US dollars annually. The issue of whether to ban these imports or increase tariffs has not only stirred tensions within the country but also raised concerns about trade relations with countries like the United States. The debate around second-hand clothes in Uganda has intensified as traders continue to converge in Kampala to sell discarded Western clothing, which remains popular among Ugandans. Rose Natarby, a second-hand clothes trader with over five years of experience, highlighted the popularity and durability of these imported garments. She mentioned that the locally made clothes in Uganda are of poor quality and do not last long, driving people towards purchasing second-hand clothing for better value. While the second-hand clothes trade serves as a significant source of income for many Ugandans, critics argue that it hinders the growth of the local textile industry. Fashion designer Victoria Marab Akinyi emphasized the need to ban the trade of second-hand clothes to promote local creativity and production. She believes that by limiting imports, there would be more opportunities for designers and individuals in Uganda to showcase their talent and contribute to the economy. However, the implementation of such measures has faced challenges, particularly in the form of opposition from countries that benefit from exporting used garments to Africa. In 2016, Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda, and Uganda attempted to increase duties on used clothing and shoes in a collective effort to support their local industries. However, this decision faced backlash from a trade group representing US used clothes exporters, leading to negotiations and compromises. Ultimately, Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda rolled back their duty increases to avoid trade implications, while Rwanda stood firm and faced consequences with its duty-free export status being suspended. The dilemma surrounding second-hand clothes imports reveals a complex interplay between economic interests, consumer preferences, and national industry development. While there is a push to protect local markets and encourage domestic production, the reliance on imported garments continues to pose a challenge for countries like Uganda striving to establish a sustainable textile and fashion sector. The balance between supporting existing livelihoods dependent on the second-hand clothing trade and fostering homegrown industries remains a critical issue that policymakers grapple with in the quest for economic growth and self-reliance in the region.